Lodi Wine Country: Why This Region Deserves More Attention
I drove through Lodi for years on my way to somewhere else. Then a winemaker friend basically forced me to spend a weekend there. I have been back six times since.
This is not Napa. Thank goodness. No thirty dollar tasting fees, no velvet ropes, no attitude. Just good wine, reasonable prices, and people who actually want to talk with you about what is in your glass.
Where Even Is This Place?
Lodi sits in California’s Central Valley, about 40 miles south of Sacramento. An hour from San Francisco if traffic cooperates, which it never does. Roughly 90 miles east of the Bay Area.
The area is flat, hot, and not particularly scenic at first glance. But the climate is good for grapes. Hot days and cool nights from Delta breezes create the temperature swings that produce intense flavors.
Why Zinfandel Matters Here
Lodi calls itself the Zinfandel Capital of the World, and it is not just marketing. Some of the oldest Zinfandel vines in California are here – gnarled old things that have been producing grapes since the 1880s.
Old vine Zinfandel from Lodi is something special. Those ancient vines produce less fruit, but what they grow has concentration that young vines cannot match. Rich, jammy, and actually complex instead of just big.
My first taste of old vine Lodi Zin changed how I thought about the grape. I had always found Zinfandel kind of boring and one-dimensional. Turns out I just had not tried the good stuff.
Beyond Zinfandel
Here is what surprised me: Lodi grows over 100 grape varieties. It is one of the most diverse wine regions anywhere.
Spanish varieties do particularly well – Tempranillo, Albarino, Verdejo. The climate is similar to parts of Spain, so these grapes feel right at home.
Portuguese varieties are a hidden strength. Port-style wines from Lodi rival some actual Portuguese ports I have had.
Italian grapes like Barbera and Sangiovese thrive in the heat. Some Rhone varieties too – Mourvedre, Grenache, Cinsault.
If you only know Lodi for Zinfandel, you are missing most of the story.
Wineries Worth Visiting
I have spent enough weekends here to have favorites. Some of my go-tos:
Michael David Winery is where Seven Deadly Zins comes from. The tasting room is in a restored farmhouse and the wines are consistently solid. Yes it is touristy but it is touristy for good reasons.
Klinker Brick specializes in old vine wines and their Zinfandel is textbook Lodi – rich without being heavy. Small operation with friendly people.
Jessie’s Grove has some of the oldest vines in the region and a real sense of history. Their tours get into the farming side of things which I appreciate.
Fields Family is tiny and makes interesting stuff including an orange wine that surprised me.
The Culture Difference
What I love about Lodi is the vibe. Most tasting rooms are run by people who work the vineyards themselves. You are not getting a polished presentation from a hired sommelier – you are talking to someone with dirt under their fingernails.
Tasting fees are typically ten to fifteen dollars, often waived with purchase. Compare that to Napa where fifty dollar fees are common and you start to see why this region has its fans.
The food scene has caught up too. Downtown Lodi has actual good restaurants now. A decade ago your options were chain restaurants and not much else.
When to Visit
Summer gets brutally hot – over 100 degrees regularly. I prefer spring or fall when temperatures are manageable and the vines are either flowering or turning colors.
The Zinfandel Festival in May draws crowds but is worth it if you want to taste dozens of local Zins in one place. I found several favorite producers at my first one.
What to Buy
Old vine Zinfandel is the obvious choice. Look for bottles that specifically say old vine – there are no legal requirements for the term, but most Lodi producers are honest about it.
Portuguese varieties are underrated here. If a Lodi winery makes Touriga Nacional or a Port-style blend, it is usually worth trying.
Petite Sirah from Lodi tends to be huge and tannic. Not for everyone but if you like big reds, these deliver.
The Bottom Line
Lodi will never have Napa’s prestige. The landscape is not as pretty, the history is not as famous, the marketing budget is not as big.
But for actual value? For finding wines you will actually drink on a Tuesday night without feeling like you are breaking the bank? For meeting the people who grow your grapes and talking to them like normal humans?
Lodi wins. It is become one of my favorite wine regions anywhere, and I am not alone in that assessment.
