The Rhone Valley Ruined All Other Red Wine Regions for Me
I spent two weeks driving around the Rhone Valley in 2019 and came back a changed person. Something about tasting Hermitage in a cellar that has been making wine since the 1600s rewires your brain. Every Syrah I drink now gets compared to those experiences, and most fall short.
The Rhone stretches about 200 kilometers through southeastern France, split into two completely different worlds: the Northern Rhone and the Southern Rhone. Same river, totally different wines, and honestly different philosophies about what wine should be.
Northern Rhone Is Syrah Country
Up north, it is all about Syrah. One grape, steep hillside vineyards, winemakers who look at you funny if you ask about blending. The terraced slopes of Cote-Rotie and Hermitage are some of the most dramatic vineyard sites I have ever seen – so steep that machines cannot work them, so everything is done by hand.
The wines from these sites are unlike Syrah from anywhere else. Darker, meatier, with this savory bacon-fat quality that sounds weird but is absolutely delicious. They can age for decades and often need at least a few years in bottle before they really open up.
I bought a case of Hermitage from a small producer during that trip and I am still hoarding it. Every time I open a bottle, I wonder if I should have bought more. The answer is always yes.
The Big Northern Appellations
Cote-Rotie sits at the northern tip and makes the most perfumed, elegant Syrahs. The name means roasted slope, and you understand why when you see the sun baking those hillsides all afternoon. Some producers add a touch of white Viognier to the blend, which sounds crazy but adds this floral lift.
Hermitage is the power player. Bigger, denser wines that take forever to come around but can be transcendent with age. A good Hermitage from a great vintage is one of the world top wines, full stop.
Saint-Joseph offers better value. The wines are approachable younger and usually cost half what Cote-Rotie and Hermitage command. If you want to understand Northern Rhone without taking out a loan, start here.
Southern Rhone Is a Different Beast
Head south past the Drome department and everything changes. Suddenly it is blends instead of single varieties. Grenache dominates, supported by Syrah, Mourvedre, and a dozen other grapes. The climate goes from continental to Mediterranean – hotter, drier, more reliable.
The wines are rounder, fruitier, more immediately approachable. Where Northern Rhone demands patience, Southern Rhone delivers pleasure right away. Nothing wrong with that.
Chateauneuf-du-Pape Is the Star
Everyone knows Chateauneuf-du-Pape, and for good reason. These wines are rich, complex, and built to accompany big meals. Up to 13 different grape varieties can go into the blend, though most producers stick to three or four.
The famous galets – those big round stones covering the vineyards – absorb heat during the day and radiate it back at night. Helps the grapes ripen fully even in cooler years. Walking through a Chateauneuf vineyard is surreal – it looks like someone dumped a beach on a hillside.
Good Chateauneuf is not cheap anymore, but you can find excellent examples for 40 to 60 dollars. Splurge for the aged stuff if you find it – 10-year-old Chateauneuf from a great vintage is worth twice what young bottles cost.
Underrated Southern Picks
Gigondas is my secret weapon for dinner parties. Similar style to Chateauneuf at lower prices. Dense, fruity, with enough structure to handle rich food.
Vacqueyras offers even better value. Not as complex as its neighbors, but solid and satisfying. Great house red territory.
Cotes du Rhone is the entry-level designation and there is a ton of mediocre stuff under that label. But the best producers make seriously good wine for under 20 dollars. Look for Cotes du Rhone Villages for a step up in quality.
What to Eat with Rhone Wines
Northern Rhone Syrah loves lamb. Something about the savory, gamey qualities of the meat matches the savory, meaty qualities of the wine. I made lamb shanks with a bottle of Crozes-Hermitage last winter and it was one of the best meals of my life.
Southern Rhone blends are more versatile. The fruit and spice work with everything from roasted chicken to grilled vegetables to beef stew. Chateauneuf can handle pretty much any hearty winter dish you throw at it.
The whites are underrated with seafood. Viognier-based whites from Condrieu are incredible with rich fish like salmon or halibut. Expensive, but worth it for a special dinner.
Why I Keep Coming Back
Rhone wines feel honest to me. They are not trying to be something they are not – no excessive oak, no manipulation, just grapes and place expressing themselves. The best ones have a sense of history too, like you are tasting the same thing people have enjoyed for centuries.
If you have not explored the Rhone properly, start with a Saint-Joseph or a good Cotes du Rhone Villages. Work your way up from there. Eventually you will find yourself booking a trip to France. Do not say I did not warn you.
