Talked to a Rioja producer last month who’s facing a genuine dilemma: pick earlier to save acidity, or stick with traditional timing and risk overripe, flabby wines.
Climate change has made this a real issue in Spain’s most famous wine region. Rising temperatures mean that waiting for full phenolic ripeness can result in wines that feel heavier and less balanced than the classics everyone loves. Some producers now harvest certain vineyard blocks weeks before their grandfathers would have considered picking.
The tricky part is that traditional Rioja style emphasized long aging, letting tannins soften over years in barrel. Those wines needed a certain structure to begin with. If you’re picking earlier for freshness, do you still get enough backbone to age gracefully? That’s the experiment happening across the region right now.
There’s also a regulatory question lurking. Rioja classification currently mandates extended aging periods. Younger, fresher wines might not fit neatly into the Crianza, Reserva, and Gran Reserva categories that consumers expect. Something has to give, whether it’s the rules or the wine style.
I’ve tasted some recent vintages that felt lighter than the Riojas I grew up drinking. Whether that’s a problem or an evolution depends on who you ask. My palate has shifted toward freshness anyway, so I don’t mind. But traditionalists have concerns, and I understand where they’re coming from.
