A sommelier friend keeps pushing Greek wines on me. This year, I finally started listening.
Greek wine exports doubled this year. Doubled. International consumers are discovering indigenous varieties like Assyrtiko and Xinomavro that offer flavors you simply cannot find from more familiar wine regions. The growth exceeded even what industry optimists predicted.
Assyrtiko from Santorini has become especially fashionable among sommeliers looking for alternatives to mainstream white varieties. The volcanic terroir produces wines of remarkable minerality and aging potential. I had a five-year-old bottle recently that was just hitting its stride. Not what I expected from a Greek white wine, but that’s partly my own ignorance showing.
Investment in modern winemaking equipment and export infrastructure has helped Greek producers meet growing demand. Several large distributors have expanded their Greek portfolios in response to consumer interest. A few years ago, finding good Greek wine outside major cities was difficult. Now my local shop carries half a dozen options.
Xinomavro, the red grape my friend won’t stop talking about, deserves its own exploration. Sometimes compared to Nebbiolo for its structure and ability to age. I’m working through a case right now, trying to understand what makes it tick. Early verdict: he was right to keep pushing.
