Went to dinner at a nice London restaurant last year and ordered their house sparkling by the glass. It was from Sussex, not Champagne. That wouldn’t have happened a decade ago.
English sparkling wine now outsells Champagne in UK restaurants according to recent industry surveys. Let that sink in for a moment. The French invented this category and dominated it for centuries, and now British restaurants are pouring local bubbles instead.
Several prestigious establishments have replaced Champagne with English alternatives on their by-the-glass programs. Sommeliers report that quality no longer lags behind French counterparts while prices remain more accessible. For restaurants, the margins work better, and for diners, the value proposition is clear.
The geology helps explain the quality. Chalky soils of Kent and Sussex produce wines with similar characteristics to those from Champagne because they sit on the same geological formation. The chalk belt that runs under the English Channel connects these regions literally.
Climate change has made English conditions increasingly suitable for sparkling wine production. What used to be marginal territory is now prime real estate for traditional method bubbles. Longer growing seasons and riper grapes mean English producers can achieve the quality that was once impossible.
I’ve become a convert. The Sussex sparkler at that London dinner was excellent, and I’ve sought out English fizz since. Still love Champagne, but competition benefits drinkers. More excellent options at more price points? I’ll raise a glass to that.
